Although Kayaköy is a settlement in the Fethiye district of Muğla today, drawing attention with its stone houses and quiet streets, its history dates back thousands of years. In ancient times, this region was part of Telmessos, which hosted the Lycian Civilization. The Lycians were an advanced civilization known for their seafaring, urban planning and tomb architecture. Kayaköy began to be used as a settlement during this period. Archaeological studies in the region show that the settlement was active during the Roman and Byzantine periods. In particular, the church ruins from the early Christian period prove that this place was used not only as a living space but also as a religious center.
From Karmylassos to Kayaköy: The Transformation of Names and Cultures
Kayaköy’s former name was known as “Karmylassos”. This ancient settlement hosted a highly developed and wealthy Greek population during the Byzantine period. It began to be known as a Greek village in the Ottoman Empire from the 18th century onwards, and its population increased especially in the 19th century, becoming an important center economically and culturally. Karmylassos reflects the vibrant life of the period with its stone houses, churches, schools and olive oil factories built on the hillsides. During these periods, the Greeks contributed to the region’s serious economic vitality by engaging in agriculture, trade and craftsmanship. Karmylassos has become a typical example of an Anatolian Greek village in the eyes of both locals and travelers.
Architectural Texture: Stone Houses Leaning Against Rocks
Kayaköy’s architectural structure is one of the most distinctive features that distinguish it from other historical villages. Hundreds of stone houses built along the hillside are positioned so that each does not block the view of the other. This planning approach reflects the architectural intelligence of the period both aesthetically and functionally. Most of the houses have a kitchen, stove, pantry and a small water tank. The thick stone walls are designed to keep cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The roofs supported by wooden beams bear the traces of traditional Anatolian architecture. There are also many churches of various sizes in the village. The largest of these, Taksiyarhis Church, attracts attention with its high ceiling, arched structure and fresco remains. These churches served not only as religious but also as social centers.
Kayaköy at the Beginning of the 20th Century: The Period Before the Population Exchange
At the beginning of the 20th century, Kayaköy was a lively and self-sufficient village with a population of approximately 20,000. This population, mostly Greek Orthodox, was engaged in agriculture, growing olives, producing wine and trading. The village had two large churches, 14 small chapels, schools, shops and many structures that supported social life. Solidarity among the people was strong and religious holidays, weddings and harvest times were spent with mass celebrations. This period is considered to be the years when Kayaköy experienced its cultural and social golden age. However, this peaceful life was about to be shaken due to the political developments of the period.
Population Exchange and Silence
The most important historical event that changed the fate of Kayaköy was the population exchange that took place in 1923 within the scope of the Treaty of Lausanne signed between Turkey and Greece. In accordance with this agreement, Greeks living in Turkey were forced to migrate to Greece, and Muslims in Greece were forced to migrate to Turkey. The Greek people living in Kayaköy were suddenly forced to leave the lands where they were born and raised. The Muslim immigrants who came in their place had difficulty settling in the stone houses here; because the buildings were not suitable for the climate conditions, living habits, and the region was worn down by earthquakes over time, the village was soon emptied. Thus, Kayaköy became a ghost village. The feeling of abandonment became a part of the village’s character over the years.
Silent Witnessing: Kayaköy as a Cultural Heritage
Today, Kayaköy is a place that impresses its visitors not only with its stone buildings, but also with the cultural meaning it carries. The village, which is listed among the world heritage sites that need to be protected by UNESCO, is a silent open-air museum that bears traces of the past. Each stone house, each ruined wall is a silent witness to the life that once existed here. While walking through the village streets, visitors come face to face not only with the physical structures but also with the emotional heritage of the past. This area offers a unique experience for those who want to make a deep inner journey on history, culture and humanity. In addition, Kayaköy is an important source for historical research and restoration work with its architectural preservation.
Kayaköy Today: From Silence to Revival
Although Kayaköy remained an abandoned settlement for a long time, it has become a center of attention again in recent years. The village, which has an inspiring atmosphere especially for history enthusiasts, artists, writers and photographers, is gaining value in terms of alternative tourism. Although limited, boutique cafes and handicraft shops have opened in the village; some old the structures have been restored and used for cultural purposes. Open-air concerts, documentary shootings and art workshops organized in Kayaköy contribute to the revival of the region both culturally and economically. Despite this, the village’s unique texture and silence are carefully preserved; rapid construction is not allowed.
Kayaköy’s Symbolic Structures
One of the most striking structures in the village is the Taksiyarhis Church mentioned above. Built in the 19th century, this structure has become one of the symbols of Kayaköy. The other important church, Panayia Pirgiotissa, is smaller but fascinates visitors with the ruins in its interior decoration. In addition, the old school building, small chapels, fountains and stone streets are very valuable structures for those who want to follow the traces of life in the village. The cemetery area at the entrance of the village also hosts silent witnesses of the past. These symbolic structures are like a time capsule for those who want to touch Kayaköy’s past and breathe in the atmosphere of that period.
Kayaköy in Literature and Cinema
Kayaköy’s fascinating atmosphere has been a great source of inspiration not only for historians but also for artists. Louis de Bernières’ novel “Birds Without Wings” was inspired by Kayaköy while telling the story of the population exchange process. In addition, this village has been featured in many local and foreign documentaries and used as a spatial representation of abandonment and reckoning with the past. Kayaköy has hosted many art projects that tell the drama of the past, the feeling of being uprooted and the memory of places. In this respect, the village is not only a physical space but also has a cultural and emotional representational power.
Confronting the Voice of the Past
Kayaköy is not just an abandoned village of stone houses; it is also a place of multi-layered history, intercultural interaction and human drama. Here, visitors experience not only a village, but also the spirit of a period, a story buried in silence, and lives trapped between stones. Each wall, each street corner brings traces of the past to the present, offering visitors the chance to confront history. Walking around Kayaköy is actually a walk against time: with the slow but meaningful steps of the past, it helps to grasp the present with a deeper understanding.
